If the suit fits….
Wearing a men’s suit that doesn’t fit properly creates the opposite of the desired effect. Instead of accentuating all your best features and making you look fantastic, you can end up looking unkempt.
Whether you buy suits off-the-rack or purchase custom tailored suits, these are the rules for how a properly fitted suit should look on you:
Rules of thumb for a great fitting suit:
1. The Shoulder
The shoulder is the most important part of the jacket. If you’re buying an off-the-rack suit, it the shoulder doesn’t fit, the jacket shouldn’t be altered, as it will be expensive and change the design of the jacket.
How to tell if it fits: It should sit snugly along your shoulder, without any extra fabric or padding overhanging your arms’ natural slope.
If it doesn’t fit: Don’t buy it.
If it fits properly, it should be easy to alter the rest of the jacket if needed. An expert tailor will ensure the shoulder fits properly if you’re having a custom tailored suit made.
LGFG offers custom-tailored, men’s suits.
2. The Lapel
Men’s suit jacket lapels come in a broad range of shapes and sizes. Whatever style you choose, it needs to fit your body correctly. If it’s too small, you’ll look overweight, if the lapel is too large, you’ll look overwhelmed and childlike.
Your flat hand should slip easily into your suit under the lapels when the top (or middle) button is fastened. If you put a fist in, the suit should pull at the button.
How to tell if it fits: For a one-button suit, do up the lone button; for a two-button suit, do up the top button; for a three-button suit, do up the top two buttons. With your arms by your sides, your jacket’s lapels should be sitting snug and flush with your chest. If they bulge, then your jacket is too small.
If it doesn’t fit: Don’t buy it. While altering the lapel of a jacket is possible, it will mean a tailor needs to alter the side-seams of your jacket, changing the way the midsection of the jacket sits on your body. If the side-seams are altered, patterned fabrics, especially pinstripes, will be ruined as they will no longer sit vertically along your body.
If you go the custom tailored suit route, the tailour should ensure the lapel is the right size for your body.
3. The Jacket Sleeve
If the jacket sleeve doesn’t fit properly, it’s really noticeable, making you look like you’ve borrowed it. This is an easy problem to fix on a men’s suit.
How to tell if it fits: The sleeve of your jacket should come to the base of your hand, and should show off 1-2cm of your shirt cuff.
If it doesn’t fit:Visit a tailor. Sleeves can be altered inexpensively if they are a few centimetres too short or too long.
4. The Trouser Waist
The waist of your pants should be snug, yet comfortable.If your pants don’t fit your body shape, it won’t matter how well your jacket fits—your suit will look out of proportion and unflattering.
How to tell if it fits: Your pants should stay comfortably on your body without needing a belt. If you need a belt to keep your pants up, they don’t fit properly.
If it doesn’t fit:Take them to a talior. Having a pair of pants taken in along the waist is inexpensive.
5. The Trouser Legs
Trouser leg shapes vary widely for different cuts and styles, and dictate the fit of the pants.
How to tell if it fits: They should fall straight down your leg, without creases or bulges. The hem of the pants should fall right along the laces of your shoe.
If it doesn’t fit: Visit a tailor. This is another easy fix – pants can be taken in along the seams easily. It’s not advisable though, to try to take out the trouser legs because of the lack of extra fabric in the seams.
Related Link: A Good Man – How to tell if a suit fits
More tips:
1. The top button of a two-button suit — or the middle button of a three-button suit — should not fall below your navel.
2. With your arms at your sides, your knuckles should be even with the bottom of your jacket.
Remember, a great suit isn’t so great if it doesn’t fit properly.
